Salmon River N.Y.
Never has so little water, been so full of fish. This is Western New York, not Alaska, not British Columbia and certainly not Tierra Del Fuego. You won't find this river mentioned in the books by all the poetic, fish-loving writers of the world. You won't see this place on those filler fishing programs they air on sports channels, in the odd hours of the day, when demographics says nobody's watching. But don't let this fool you, this place, although not as pretty as some of the aforementioned locales, is home to world class fishing.
Every year, the biggest, and baddest, pacific salmon brutes, leave the comforts of the big water, following their hearts, or their noses, or their instincts, and head upriver to spawn and die. All we really know is they return home, and that this phase is the end of their life cycle. A process in which assures that new life will be promised for the next season.
What makes this particular river, and all the great lakes tributaries special, is the fact that they are so short. The places that lie on most salmon and steel headers “bucket” lists, involve fishing on rivers that span hundreds of miles in length, whereas, the Salmon river is approximately 16 miles long, from pour out to hatchery, at which point the fish cannot move any further.
This river floods with fish, and anyone who has ever read a story about how hard west coast salmon and steel heading is, might scratch their heads after spending a few days on this river. I myself, have read many a tale of single-fish weeks in British Columbia, or trips to Alaska that had to be salvaged when the Salmon didn't show up as expected. Stories about guides opting to take clients expecting 40-60 pound kings, out to fish for five pound char and gray ling. Anyone who wants to make the trek to the final frontier for gray ling and char, is certainly a sicker patient than I.
For guys in the northeast, making a trip to New York can be just as rewarding, if not more, than a trip to any of those places. However, if you're the type that needs a beautiful change of scenery, this place just won't do it for you. Western New York is as flat as the northeast gets; the only thing around there that will captivate you is water-related. The fishing here however, will change you, in the same way passing over the continental divide for the first time in your life, burns a haunting image in your mind of what's out there, beyond the clear blue: these waters will haunt you.
This place can ruin any man used to everyday stream trout. Lake Ontario, the Great lake that supports these tributaries, can do the same to any boat fisherman as well. Depending on your personality, and degree of love for the sport, this place can turn what used to be your glory days, into just an act of leisure. I say this because it has happened to me to some extent. If it wasn't for my devotion to fly fishing, and catching trout on dry-flies in particular, I may just have been sucked into the vortex surrounding this mystical river, and salmon and steel heading in general.
Those who do get sucked in, have a hard time coming home and finding pleasure in pulling stream trout to the net, without much struggle, and with very few heartbreaks, as I call them. The heartbreaks usually involve snapped line, spit hooks, or just plain getting beat by the fish you're attached to. I sit back and wonder sometimes if it's the heartbreaks I'm addicted to, and not the “winning” moments, as Charlie Sheen would say. Your average angler, after spending a day in search of winter steel head, might begin to wonder who's crazier, steel headers or Charlie Sheen. I know I've had plenty of days when I've questioned my own sanity, out wading the river in February, casting for hours just to get one or two players.
This place can get to you, especially if it doesn't meet your expectations, and you've invested more than a few bucks to ante up. You've driven hundreds of miles, spent a few hundred dollars, perhaps taken coveted vacation time to chance it...and you come up short. The 5 hour ride home is a silent one, tiredness catches up with you, you start to think about what you could have done with two days on your local waters. There is no singing along with the radio, no joking, no recounts to be glorified; you've been beaten. This is the game though, and like all games, you have to play to win. The following story is about winning.
WINNNNNIIIIING! (Charlie Sheen Voice)
All season long I had been throwing out one liners to various anglers I knew, both in “Real Life”, as well as those I am acquainted with through various social networks. The forums, by which many of us out-of -towners base our frenzied lunging upon, would light up once a week, with reports heavy on the fish porn. The three, folded up,100 dollar bills I had hidden in the belly of my wallet, would begin to warm, and slowly eat through the leather. I emailed the people I thought could get sucked into this kind of thing; this mad plan to chase running fish. The messages were sometimes detailed, if I thought severe convincing, and logistics, need be applied. Sometimes, it would be as simple as two words and a punctuated cat tail: Salmon Run?
The responses I got back varied from family events, work obligations, lack of funding, even probation conditions. The reports kept piling in, I was anxious, the three hundred dollar bills had turned into two hundred dollar bills at this point; I could not afford this trip without a sidekick...
Earlier this year I had met a friend of mine on the Mascoma river, in Enfield New Hampshire. He had brought a friend of his along that he had put on to fly fishing, and we all fished a tough-luck, evening micro hatch, of tricos (size 22), with scattered tan caddis coming off sporadically. I was the only one out of the group who managed to hookup, going 2-2 on a brookie and a rainbow. I was using a white wulff, with a green pupa dropper, eighteen inches from the wulff's hook shank. One fish came on the dropper, one came on the dry; it was a classic affirmation of why I almost always rock tandem.
I always like to see other anglers in what I call the coital phase of fly fishing. This term refers to that period of time where an angler must become one with his fly rod. If an angler never makes it out of this phase he is doomed. Many people buy into the mystique surrounding fly fishing, only to get turned off by the whole process of it and give up, going back to conventional methods forever. For me, the coital period lasted nearly five years. Fly fishing remained in constant competition with spin fishing, and lake trolling, for some time. By the fifth year, I dedicated nearly all of my fishing time to the fly rod. I said to myself “time to stop F**cking around, and get GOOD at this”. In that year I noticed myself improving, others noticed as well; I was finally making love to the fly rod. Both my friend, and his friend ,are in the coital phase, and I hope they make it out alive. Buying into the whole fly fishing “thing” is the first step, and it's a big and bold one.
I had nobody else to poke and prod into making a trip. I had already suckered one person into buying a ticket to the salmon show a month earlier, only to spend three hard days searching the vast salmon river estuary, managing only to hook a few fish, in the last hours of the final day. A heavy rain had pounded us suddenly, and we almost retreated with the rest of the anglers. But as I watched the area become vacant, I saw opportunities open up, so I slid the anchor back down into the muddy bottom of the estuary. For an hour we took turns tying into king salmon, only to be beaten by each one. 72 hours of out of town angling. for one hour of angling glory; it was the rivers way of saying “thank you, please try again”.
Exhausted of recruits for the fishing trip, I remembered the friend of a friend. I messaged my friend, and asked him if his buddy would have any interest in something like the salmon run, he said “ask him, I bet he's down”.Times like these remind me of why I'm part of the social network movement at all. Finding my friends buddy Matt was a cinch using Facebook, what was even easier was getting Matt sold on salmon fishing; the trip was on!
We met up around 9 pm, packed the truck with all our gear and departed west. The trip takes us through western Vermont and eastern New York, right to the shores of Great Lake Ontario. I've made this trip too many times now to count, and put enough miles on my truck doing so, that I could have made it back and forth to Montana four or five times already.
Within a few hours you find yourself on I-90w, a highway that stretches from here to the coast of California. Every time I get on I-90w, something inside of me wants to forge on past my destined exit, and keep going until I see the continental divide. Then I’m reminded by my wallet that I only have enough money to get me somewhere inside of Ohio; and nobody wants to be stuck in Ohio!
During the ride over I tried to get Matt up to speed regarding the Salmon River. Perhaps I just wanted to fuel his anxiety and excitement, or keep him from the shock of having to fish next to 100 other anglers. Most people won't endure this for anything, not even giant salmonoids! This river initially sucked me in by way of the steel head that inhabit it, after the salmon make their run. I had seen the pictures of the combat fishing lines, and heard the stories of people snagging fish in their tails and backs. For a while I decided not to pursue these fish, but curiosity killed this cat, and I eventually caved in.
The first day we ended up getting to the river late, and had to squeeze in between other anglers in line. The spot we held wasn't bad, it just wasn't where you wanted to be, and much of the day was spent watching other people catch fish. We had a few hookups, but not many, and all of them managed to get loose. Fish were everywhere though, and we knew that the second day would require us to get up very early, if we wanted to get a prime spot.
The highlight of the first day was watching a woman cast her switch rod. She was fishing with several other male anglers and each one was as fascinated by her methods as I was. For those of you who don't know, a switch rod is a fly rod that can be cast with two hands, or just one, depending on your needs at the time. It's refereed to as Spey Casting, however there are rods that are only meant to be used with two hands, whereas the switch rod gives you the option.

This woman put on a clinic. She could cast virtually anywhere she liked; her reach was only fenced by the opposing riverbank. Not only was her casting amazing, but she was catching fish, enough in fact, that she had no problem hooking up her male counterparts, who had been struggling all day, with a fish or two to soothe their frustrations. In my circle, we call this a “hand job” or “hand off” if you're in the presence of a lady, or someone so square they would be offended by the term. It's a fun little saying to use when telling a fishing story. The look on the listeners face is usually priceless. For a brief second, they're visual imagery is corrupted, by the thought of two men doing something entirely inappropriate for the stories setting. Most times, people get it without me having to explain things, other times I have to define the term in order to wipe the disgusted look off of their faces. Later, at the lodge, I would tell her story to the other patrons: “there's was a woman putting on a clinic in the fly zone, she was giving everyone hand jobs!”.
When I bring new people to this river, there's usually a hand job involved. Most times it's tough fishing, or at least the method is so foreign to them it becomes tough, and I hate to see someone go home a sore loser, so I get a fish on, and hand them the rod like “here...now go get um”.
Day 2 started at 3 am, or at least it did for me. I was haunted by the few fish I'd tango'd with the day before. Nightmares of spit hooks and snapped line, I woke up in a sweat, long before the alarm clock got its chance ruin my slumber. I powered up my laptop, and scanned the fishing forums, while Matt lay sleeping. I finished reading the posts of the day, and began packing the truck for a quicker decent, after the days fishing was over.
The spot we were fishing was literally 50 yards from the lodge we were staying in. As I packed the truck, I could hear what sounded like someone dropping cannonballs into the river. I shut the truck door, grabbed a flashlight from the utility box, and took a walk down the street, to the bridge over the river. When I reached bridge, I pointed the flashlight down into the dark water, exposing the backs of what appeared to be a pod of about 50 salmon. I raced to the other side of the bridge, and repeated the process, only to see the line of salmon extending another 200 feet, maybe more; as the flashlight can only reach so far.
A week earlier, Shane Muckey, the owner of Altmar Outfitters, had told me they were “stacked up like cord wood”. Our first day on the river, I would have said the fish were numerous, but not exactly stacked by any means. What I was seeing now WAS, indeed, salmon stacked like cord wood, although I would acquaint it to something like: the line at a Harry Potter premier, or perhaps what if Woodstock had only one Porto-potty; the salmon were definitely occupying the river like Wall Street.
I hoofed it back to the lodge, got fully geared up, and began pestering Matt out of his slumber. I contemplated skipping the process by rigging the alarm clock to go off, and waiting to explain things, long after he had realized my dirty trick. I always hate doing this, and I'm never sure how my friends will take being woken up at 3:30 in the morning by a guy in Gore-Tex overalls, but Matt didn't seem to mind, and simply said “you don't sleep do you?” I replied “not when I'm near this river”.
We got geared up, filled ourselves with donuts and coffee, and hit the river. It was around 4:30 am at this point, and not surprisingly, we weren't the only ones there. Matt and I looked down from the bridge one last time before going to our spot; they were still there, but it was still a good hour and a half until legal fishing time, and all their was to do was sip coffee and wait.
When the sun started to creep up, a heavy fog had blanketed the river. We had spent the last hour and a half watching salmon splash around in the dark, their tails and fins coming out of the water like sharks, or schools of tarpon. We waited until it was close enough to legal fishing time, which either pertains to the actual time, or the point you look around, and realize people are already fishing, the latter of which almost always comes first. It was too dark to fish, but we did anyways, and by my third cast I was on to a 10 pound salmon, commonly refereed to as a jack. Somehow, by way of luck, Matt managed to net the fish in the dark. I unhinged the hook from its jaw while it was still in the net, and Matt took a picture that not even a flash could enhance. It was a small, ugly fish...but it was a fish, and a good sign of how the day was going to go.

I started off with the hot rod, having landed something like 6 salmon in a couple hours span. Matt had hooked up a few times, but had been beaten by them all. I had landed 6, but had hooked into probably 20. For a good stretch, it seemed like I was hooking up at will, and seeing my counterpart go fish-less only brought about ill feelings. I connected again and walked over to Matt “you want it, go ahead” I said “no, that's alright” he replied. Stubborn, I thought, I like that!



Another hour went by and I was still killing them. Matt was having a tough time landing fish, and had even resorted to getting a “hand off”, only to have the hook spit. He was under-geared for this trip, to say the least, and I had thought it might have kept him from the success I was having. We switched spots, just in case it was location, that was keeping me on fish. I still hooked up in Matt's spot, however Matt seemed to be hooking up more than before, so my guess is that the spot had something to do with it. By the time 9:00 rolled around Matt had finally gotten into his groove, by landing his first King Salmon: a good 15 pound male. I was finally the one holding the camera, and a sense of relief had come over me, relief that my guest wouldn't go home, completely chewed up by this river.


The rest of the day was a slaughter. The type of day where you lose track of the numbers, and time melts off the clock like butter in a microwave. We had fought many, many salmon, so many in fact, taking pictures of the fish that had become ordinary seemed redundant, so we didn't. The camera only came out for the hogs, which was any fish over 20 pounds. Sometimes we would snap a photo of one that was particularly ugly, or beat up. The clinic we were putting on, had drawn spectators, and evil eyes from across the river; we were those guys, if only for a day.



One of the more memorable fish was one that had gotten away, (which is the oldest fish story in the book, I know), however, the fight was witnessed by nearly 60 other people, some of which had a bird's eye view from the bridge, down to the pool we were fishing. One guy made a remark that it was “a big coho”, what he guessed to be about “20 pounds”, but the fish got off, after a valiant battle, that kept everyone fishing the pool, with their lines out of the water, impatiently waiting.
It was perhaps the most successful day I've ever had in my fishing life. If I added it up in pounds, like a bass-guy would, it would probably be my high-water mark forever. Fortunately, I measure success a little differently, and there's still a chance that day will not be my “Apex”.
The ride home wasn't typical of two guys who just caught 60 salmon. We were tired. Beat from having no sleep, and spending 10 hours constantly connected to thrashing salmon. It was a slog back to our point of origin. My eyes wanted to close; coffee, and cold air from a cracked window, was the only thing keeping me from crashing. When we finally hit the Vermont welcome sign, I got my bodies last rush of adrenaline, and it pushed us home.
A day later, I recharged, and began uploading hero pictures, and posting victory reports of my own, on various internet forums. The folks outside of “the know”, thought Matt and I had gone to Alaska, judging from the pictures of the trip. I wish...although I’m not sure if that type of success would be guaranteed, even in Alaska. Two days later Matt and I started plotting for a return to the river, this time on a quest for STEEL.